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have replaced wheels twice. keeps stripping plastic gears
Probably because the wheel mounting plates are not parallel with the mower body. Mine were “toed in” on each side. In my case the mounting plate was “gold colored”. I installed a spacer behind the wheel mounting bolt and the mower body. To see if this is the problem remove the wheel. Take off the inside dust cover and reinstall the wheel. Look at the plastic teeth of the wheel and the metal gear on the transaxle shaft. If gears are not meshed correctly grab the part of the tire that faces the front of the mower and pull it away from the mower. If the wheel and mounting plate move away from the mower and seats the gears correctly then you need to put a spacer (I used a slightly oversized nut to cover the wheel bolt threads sticking through the mounting plate) and then release the wheel and the nut (spacer) becomes pinned between the mounting plate and the mower body. Because the nut covers the inside threads when you go to adjust the height of the wheels the pinned nut will move up and down between the plate and mower body. I have read other posts that numerous parts were replaced to try to correct this problem. Nothing on my mower was worn so I just tried this and it worked perfectly. Hope this helps.
Bad design. Had good steel to steel and messed them up. Get the conversion kit (two drive pinions and two old style steel gear wheels) and they will last longer.
I’ve got a 20334 whose sprockets are not worn evenly. I learned this while trying to find out why the mower is so hard to push without the personal pace engaged. I’ve lubed the bearings and adjusted the handle cable. The return spring affixed to the transmission bracket flops around, which tells me it’s not a partial engagement at rest condition. There are only two other things I’ve noticed: The transmission shaft travels from left to right and vice versa more than an inch. This strikes me as a component failure, but I don’t know how to confirm it.If I relieve the tension on the ride height brackets by extending the handle to point at the ground, the shaft and sprocket turn more freely. This I can’t explain, as it doesn’t seem to be putting direct stress on the sprocket or shaft when the ride height handle is at an appropriate position. Are there any technical references that might help me determine if these conditions are normal? I’m more than happy to replace the transmission, but I don’t want to throw new parts at a scenario that may make them prematurely fail. Any insight would be greatly appreciated if anyone is inclined. Thanks
I have a different problem The little steel gear inside of the front wheel keeps rubbing the tips of the plastic teeth off of the wheel. I bet I have lost a couple dozen wheels. There are several causes for this. When you are mowing and that drive wheel bumps into a solid object such as a fence post or a car tire, That will stop the wheel but the drive belt does not slip. The gear keeps turning against that stopped wheel and eats the teeth right out of the wheel. I had to abandon my nice 100% drive using a 1/2 wide belt, and go back to a 3/8 belt that slips so much. Another problem is the soft plastic those wheels are made of, can’t do anything about that. The third issue I would like suggestions on. If the wheel spindle was just 1/10 inch farther from the driveshaft and its gear, there would be much deeper engagement of the two gears, and it would not just wipe the tips of the gear teeth off. I intend to try busting the wheel spindle out of the plate, and rewelding it on at 1/10 inch farther to the rear. Has anyone done that? Did it work? Does anyone have a less radical solution?
What type of wheel teeth do your have ? Is it the center mounted nylon gear or does the wheel have small teeth around the outer edge of the wheel. Can your provide a photo of the worn gear?
