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Hello, thank you for any assistance. My Kenmore washer has two things going on. First “new thing” is it agitates during initial water fill. Never did that before. It would normally fill properly to selected level… THEN start agitating. Now it just starts agitating second I turn it on. Second thing is it continually adds water through rinse cycle AND spin cycle. So I get a water soaked load of laundry at end of spin cycle. What part could I replace to correct the problem with the continuous rinse during spin/dry cycle? Update (06/24/2016) Well, after reading repair boards/forums for days! I tried what someone suggested. It worked! All it cost was $7. Go to AutoZone or Advance auto. Buy a can of CRC Lectra-Motive electric parts cleaner. Then go open the washing machine you can watch a YouTube video how to do it. Basically remove the two plastic side retainer pieces. Remove screws and clips. Get to the electronics. Spray down all control boards and connection plugs you find. It’s basically having a bad connection or jumping do to years of humid conditions, dust, vibrations. I am not sure which part or wire connection was at fault. Like I said I sprayed all I found. This cleaner is potent! Respirator recommended. Fan a must! Fan helps dry everything I sprayed. After spraying I left fan on high for 3 hours blowing into the sprayed parts. Then I clipped the connections back together. Then put everything back together. Did a test load and BAM it was fixed. $7. No parts. It has been running perfect ever since. I can’t even remember when I posted this. It’s NOT hard. YouTube video on opening unit. Get the CRC Electric cleaner and do it. Our w/d are 1998 but we keep them clean. No reason to but new ones. The only other repair was the “dogs” on the agitator… it’s a wear item. Kenmore/Whirlpool are great machines. NEVER BUY THOSE STUPID FRONT LOADER MACHINES! Keep it simple. People. BAM Good luck!
This is not a normal failure that I’m familiar with. My guess, and it’s just that, is: Water Inlet Valve If the washer is overflowing and power is shut off to the washer, the water inlet valve has failed. Replace it. Pressure Switch If the washer is overflowing the pressure switch might be defective. The pressure switch is attached to a small tube which is attached to the outer wash tub. As the water level rises the air pressure in the tube increases, once the set water level is reached the pressure switch turns off power to the water inlet valve. Check to be sure the air tube to the pressure switch is clear before replacing the switch.
Washer starts agitating immediately when washer starts filling, also starts filling at end of spin cycle. Second time occurrence for this Kenmore 800 Series washer, Both times fixed with W10248240 Temp/Load Sensor Switch. Switch lasted 4.5 years the first time, four years this time.
I’m having same problem as my machine will start agitating at initial fill and rinse as spin is completing and then stop (this is on normal wash) also extra rinse is turned off. It does the initial fill and agitate at the same time on Casual wash but does not do the rinse after spin so now I just use Casual wash. I’m wondering how long this will last before totally dying? Got this Maytag Centennial washing machine in 2009 and I lived alone one user except when my dad was here for 3 years so not much use but dying already may have to try a different brand?
My washer after wash and starts rinse cycle. Water goes in but dose not fill in rinse. I have to put it on small load help it with putting water in myself. Once it gets going I them switch it to medium level then water starts fill fill again.
I fixed my washer when it began agitating immediately when started, instead of filling first, by changing the Water Level Switch. On my Whirlpool it’s part of the Temperature switch. Actually, before that I just removed the switch and tapped on the sensor and blew and sucked on the nozzle where the clear hose plugs into it. Then reinstalled it, and it worked for 2 more years. But it’s definitely the Water Level Switch. I got a real good price on eBay for a brand new switch. They’re aftermarket, but they’re OEM equivalent. I haven’t yet figured out what causes the Water Spray at the end of the Spin Cycle. I’ll try cleaning all the contacts (that’s what you do to computer controlled vehicles periodically as part of their maintenance, by the way). Maybe that’ll work. You can find out how to open your control panel cabinet by going on Youtube and searching for it. Mine was easy. You take a small putty knife and slide it into the joint on each side of the cabinet where it the cabinet joins the top of the washer box, and push towards the back and a clip will release (it may make a click sound, and you may have to lightly pull up on the cabinet front corner). Once both of these clips are released, the whole control panel cabinet will flip up and backwards. Then you can access all your wiring, connectors and controls. !!WARNING: ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR MACHINE BEFORE ACCESSING THE CONTROLS AND WIRING!! Hope this helps!
Randy’s answer was helpful in diagnosing my timer issue with my Kenmore (Whirlpool mfg) model 110 washer. Unfortunately, cleaning out the circuit’s didn’t solve my particular problem, and I had to replace the timer. But I recommend trying to clean your control boards as Randy describes before calling out a repairman.
